Hey look, its a table base.

I did not put in as much shop time this weekend as I should have but some good progress was made.  On Saturday I spent several hours adjusting the leg assemblies.  I sharpened my low angle block plane and shaved down all of the end grain portions, used my jointer plane to flush up all of the various parts, and adjusted the feet pads to bring both sides into square.

After that I snuck up on the fit for the first tenon and managed to get it into place.  My #10 Carriage Maker’s Rabbit Plane made this process much easier.

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The second tenon happened on Sunday and went much faster thanks to having the router plane dialed in and an existing tenon to use as a template; Though I still managed to make mangle the shoulder resulting in some pretty major gaps.  This week I will sharpen up my shoulder plane and get the shoulders sorted out before I fit the middle support

Since this was the first time putting the parts of the base together I wanted to take a look at how square everything looked but unfortunately, there are no flat floors in my workshop and my bench is not level (heavily sloped garage floor).  I carried the parts upstairs and dry fit them in the dinning room with favorable results.  My wife decided she liked the danish modern look so the planned milk paint will instead be clear finish.

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Restoring a Stanley #10 – Part 2

Since I now have a functioning vise I decided to finish up the #10 (and then use it to adjust the tenons on my workbench). A week or two ago I finished up the handle repair following the method on RexMill.com and the epoxy worked great.  Unfortunately I missed that the fog had rolled in while I was spraying shellac so the handles ended up with a milky finish but it will be good enough for a working tool.

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Then I put the plan body into the vise and took a look at the plane mouth which had been badly mangled, likely in an effort to repair a chip.  I used my combination square and scratched a straight line across the front of the mouth.  A few passes with the file created a fairly straight mouth, though it could be a bit cleaner.

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I flattened the bottom with some 60 grit paper and a diamond stone and then put it all back together.  I swapped out the bent threaded rod for the rear tote with one from my part bin and stole the rear tote screw from an unused #5.  It worked pretty well on some of my workbench tenons but it still needs to tuning and adjusting.  Specifically the sides need to be squared with the bottom and the chip breaker needs to be made the same width as the blade.

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Restoring a Stanley #10 – Part 1

Here is my Stanley #10 which was part of the batch of tool I purchased from a collector early last year (the same one I bought Big Bertha from). He sold it to me as a discounted price due to its poor condition: it was covered in rust, the tote was broken, and the mouth had obviously been chipped and badly refiled. I did not have time to deal with most of the issues when I purchased it but did nuke the rust on the blade, chip breaker, and cap-leaver. I’m apparently bad at before pictures so here is the plane as it looked on Friday:

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Most of the Japaning was missing or loose and there was rust all over the plane body. Since I already had the electrolysis gear out for the vise the frog and the body went into the bath for a long soak. 6 hours later I hit them with a brass brush and then back into the bath for several more hours (I’m not sure if my sacrificial iron is getting used up or if it’s because I am using Washing Soda instead of my usual baking soda but the rust removal went much slower this weekend).  After the last soak I used a “between finishes” sanding pad to remove the black residue left on the parts and placed them into a 225 degree oven for 10 minutes, letting them cool inside the oven; this fully dries out the parts in preparation for painting. Once the parts had cooled down there was a fair amount of flash rust that I removed with a wire brush mounted to a Dremmel Multi-tool (I don’t have a bench grinder yet).

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For applying the new finish, I followed Rex Mill’s plan using engine paint with the addition of petroleum jelly on the areas where paint is not needed, as recommended by Bob Jones.

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Before                                After Flash Rust Removal                                 After Painting

Tonight I will wipe/scrape/sand off the excess paint and access the straightness of the plane mouth.

I also started repairing the broken tote. It’s not a clean break and it had a previous railed repair so I decided to use a compilation of the techniques found on Rex Mill’s site. First I scrapped out as much of the excess glue that I could, and then I drilled a series of small holes in each face of the break (the theory being that this would give more surface area for the epoxy. A quarter inch dowel rapped in tape and coated with petroleum jelly lined up the two parts and I smeared 5 minute epoxy into the holes on each face, squished the two parts together with my fingers, and added a bead of epoxy on the outside to fill the chips/gaps along the break. Once the epoxy was 90% set up I pulled out the dowel and continued to hold the pieces together until the bead was hard to the touch.

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I forgot to take a picture of the glued up tote but I will make sure to do so before I sand it down.