Restoring a Stanley #10 – Part 2

Since I now have a functioning vise I decided to finish up the #10 (and then use it to adjust the tenons on my workbench). A week or two ago I finished up the handle repair following the method on RexMill.com and the epoxy worked great.  Unfortunately I missed that the fog had rolled in while I was spraying shellac so the handles ended up with a milky finish but it will be good enough for a working tool.

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Then I put the plan body into the vise and took a look at the plane mouth which had been badly mangled, likely in an effort to repair a chip.  I used my combination square and scratched a straight line across the front of the mouth.  A few passes with the file created a fairly straight mouth, though it could be a bit cleaner.

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I flattened the bottom with some 60 grit paper and a diamond stone and then put it all back together.  I swapped out the bent threaded rod for the rear tote with one from my part bin and stole the rear tote screw from an unused #5.  It worked pretty well on some of my workbench tenons but it still needs to tuning and adjusting.  Specifically the sides need to be squared with the bottom and the chip breaker needs to be made the same width as the blade.

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A “boring” weekend in the shop

I got some shop time on Sunday and spent most of it angering out the waste from the bench top’s through mortices.  I also finished chopping out the space for my end vise which just needs some minor adjustments. 

I am getting better at making a square hole and I marked the mortice center line on both sides of the bench to see how close the spur came to its mark. Every hole came close and the last few were just about dead on.


It was a hot and muggy weekend (by SF standards) and I should have known better but when I sprayed a coat of shellac on the handles of my #10 they ended up with a milky white color to them.  Hopefully this will go away as it driers so I can avoid sanding it off.

I had also hoped to get the groove for the sliding deadman cut but that will have to wait until next weekend (I’m in D.C. all week for work).

Restoring a Stanley #10 – Part 1

Here is my Stanley #10 which was part of the batch of tool I purchased from a collector early last year (the same one I bought Big Bertha from). He sold it to me as a discounted price due to its poor condition: it was covered in rust, the tote was broken, and the mouth had obviously been chipped and badly refiled. I did not have time to deal with most of the issues when I purchased it but did nuke the rust on the blade, chip breaker, and cap-leaver. I’m apparently bad at before pictures so here is the plane as it looked on Friday:

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Most of the Japaning was missing or loose and there was rust all over the plane body. Since I already had the electrolysis gear out for the vise the frog and the body went into the bath for a long soak. 6 hours later I hit them with a brass brush and then back into the bath for several more hours (I’m not sure if my sacrificial iron is getting used up or if it’s because I am using Washing Soda instead of my usual baking soda but the rust removal went much slower this weekend).  After the last soak I used a “between finishes” sanding pad to remove the black residue left on the parts and placed them into a 225 degree oven for 10 minutes, letting them cool inside the oven; this fully dries out the parts in preparation for painting. Once the parts had cooled down there was a fair amount of flash rust that I removed with a wire brush mounted to a Dremmel Multi-tool (I don’t have a bench grinder yet).

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For applying the new finish, I followed Rex Mill’s plan using engine paint with the addition of petroleum jelly on the areas where paint is not needed, as recommended by Bob Jones.

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Before                                After Flash Rust Removal                                 After Painting

Tonight I will wipe/scrape/sand off the excess paint and access the straightness of the plane mouth.

I also started repairing the broken tote. It’s not a clean break and it had a previous railed repair so I decided to use a compilation of the techniques found on Rex Mill’s site. First I scrapped out as much of the excess glue that I could, and then I drilled a series of small holes in each face of the break (the theory being that this would give more surface area for the epoxy. A quarter inch dowel rapped in tape and coated with petroleum jelly lined up the two parts and I smeared 5 minute epoxy into the holes on each face, squished the two parts together with my fingers, and added a bead of epoxy on the outside to fill the chips/gaps along the break. Once the epoxy was 90% set up I pulled out the dowel and continued to hold the pieces together until the bead was hard to the touch.

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I forgot to take a picture of the glued up tote but I will make sure to do so before I sand it down.

End vise conundrum

I could use some advise.  Attempting to add the monster quick release vise to my bench as an end vise has hit a snag.  Because this vise is such a beast, the parallel bars are quite long which means the nearest leg is in the way if I use a symmetrical overhang.  Moving the leg out of the way would require it to move nearly 6 inches, resulting in a 42 inch base on a 6 foot bench.  The other complication is my garage floor has a heavy slope for drainage and the end vise is on the downhill of the slope so if I shift the leg the long side will have a heavy vise and be downhill.

The other choose is to shift the vise 2 inches away from the front edge (or do something crazy and notch the leg).

Anyone have any thoughts?

The red clamping brace is where the leg should go.

Vise Restoration – part 1

After looking over the vise I purchased on Craig’s List I decided it just needed some minor rust removal.  It looks like it was rainted at some point (there is paint on the parallel bars near the front) and while I don’t know what is under that paint, overall the surface looks pretty good.  Most of the rust is on the bottom on the parallel bars and the screw so I decided to start with some electrolysis rust removal.

 

Before

I hooked it up to the electrolysis machines and put it into a bucket of water and washing soda for around 4 hours.


After a brief scrub with a sanding pad and a wire brush things are looking considerably better.

After

I put on some Camilla oil and tomorrow I will use abrasives to clean off the rest.

Sharpening a rip saw

For once, I blamed the tool and was actually right.  Those of you who read my resawing post saw the mess I made using a modern disposable saw.  As a result, on Saturday I decided to sharpen my Disston D8 rip saw.

I acquired this saw from the same collector I bought Big Bertha from and according to the Disstonian Institute medallion directory it was manufactured between 1895 and 1917 meaning it is likely around the same age as our house.  It has around 5.5 TPI and is dull as a hammer but the previous owner had removed the visible rust.

Before
Before

I made my Moxon vise large enough to hold a full size saw plate (though the leather is about 2 inches short) so I removed the handle and placed it in the vise and followed the sharpening  method described in the Heritage School of Woodworking video.

After two rounds of jointing and shaping I checked the tooth set (it was more than I needed) and then did a final sharpening pass with my 7 slim taper file.  A few passes with a medium and fine rust eraser removed the rust and grime than had been hidden under the handle.

The handle was sanded with 220 and 320 then was wet sanded with BLO and 400 grit paper.  I left a bit of the old patina and the BLO showed a bit of curly Apple which was a nice surprise.  Two coats of spray shellac and a coat of wax left a nice surface.  The brass was sanded, buffed with steel wool and waxed.

still need to remove the layout fluid but looks pretty nice

If you will remember, after an hour with the disposable saw I had made very little progress resawing the board and the progress I did make was a mess.  After my son went to bed I waxed the handle, cleaned the brass, reassembled the and finished splitting the board.  All told I was done in hour, so it was the tool that made the difference.  It saw amazingly easy to follow my marked lines and the saw actually stay within the defined saw kerfs, something the modern saw refused to do (I suspect it is due to the hybrid teeth and large set).

The Results were not to shabby though the ends that were started with the new saw were a mangled mess, luckily I was able to cut most of the bad parts off and smooth up the remaining marks with my number 6.

Chisel Sharpening and “New” Tool Setup – 03/23/2015

Other than finishing the rocking dinosaurs, most of last weekend and last night’s shop time was spent sharpening tools, including a couple of rehab/initial setup projects. Thanks to the purchase of a boot tray and hardboard base, my sharpening setup is portable and much easier to work with. As with most amateurs, my sharpening routine is still evolving but here is what is currently consists of.

  • two Atoma diamond stones
    • one 140x for tough restoration/initial setups
    • one 400x for restoration/initial setups and flattening my water stones
  • a dual grit 1000x & 4000x water stone for primary sharpening
  • two Japanese water stones for final polishing
    • one 10,000 grit yellow stone
    • one 15,000 girt white stone
  • One “horse butt” leather strop which is a recent addition, I use it without compound

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I use a Veritas honing guide with both the straight and rounded rollers and I do not currently have a grinder, though I have been contemplating buying a hand crank one from eBay.

I finally got my Record 65 (courtesy of Patrick Leach over at SuperTool.com) set up by flattening the back of the blade to a minor polish and sharpening a 32 degree bevel edge (there were some nicks and I don’t have a grinder at the moment). When I started setting up the NOS English made Stanley 151 spokeshave I purchased during Tools for Woodworking’s Cyber Monday event I had a bit more difficulty. Thanks to a large depression at the tools edge it took quite a while to flatten the back and since the edge is not straight thanks to that same depression I have a feeling making the initial bevel will also take a while.

Darn manufacturing defect
Darn manufacturing defect
woodworker selfie
woodworker selfie
The cap iron needs some TLC as well
The cap iron needs some TLC as well

Almost all (except of the two below) of my chisels are now razor sharp and ready for their next project but when I was going through them I realized that my Buck Brothers ½ inch chisel has been put away covered in glue and since I primarily use my Narex ½ inch chisel it sat that way for a long time; rust everywhere. Upon contemplating how to deal with this rusty mess I remembered an older Chris Schwarz post regarding making your own dovetail chisel by grinding down the sides of a cheaper chisel; since the chisel was a mess anyway I decided while I had my belt sander out for the 3 inch chisel I would give it a go. After some time on the belt sander the results are pretty dramatic when you compare it to the ¾ inch chisel from the same set; my next project involves dovetails so we will soon discover how well it works.

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Last year I purchased several tools from a collector that needed to clear out some space (we met in a grocery store parking lot for the exchange where I purchased the goods out of his trunk) and I am finally getting around to turning some of those purchases into functional users. Amongst those tools was an old 2 inch wide socket chisel which looked like someone had used as a pry bar and there wise abused. This meant the chisel back was quite out of flat and since I want to use to for cleaning up the leg mortises on my Rubo style bench I decided to flatten the back using my belt sander. After a few minutes of work I started to mark the back with a pencil and then remembered the Marking Fluid I bought for saw sharpening; the blue fluid quickly showed where my high and low spots were and once the blue areas moved away from the edge I swapped to the 140 grid diamond plate. After a couple of hours I ended up with a fairly good surface near the edge however one corner must have caught the belt and left and low spot.

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